For most travelers, Italy is a land of history, beauty, generosity and gentility. Old Rome. Tuscan countrysides. Venician glass and gondolas. The devastating earthquake in Abruzzo is a bleak reminder of the other Italy — the Italy of poverty and suffering. In this other Italy, typically south of Rome, life is anything but sweet. This column in the Times, centering on the life and experiences of the great Italian writer Ignazio Silone, tackles that subject head on.